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BIKEJORING
If you're already comfortable with
skijoring, or if you've had success with canicross, you might consider
bikejoring. This qualification
sequence is deliberate, as bikejoring is exhilarating but can quickly test
all your skills! Adding dogs
to the cycling equation changes the handling characteristics of the
bicycle, and introduces an element of unpredictability.
The point here is not to discourage bikejoring, but to suggest that
candidates become comfortable with each of the elements first, especially
controlling the dogs while in motion as well as being a competent cyclist.
Once you're at that point you may consider combining these skills
and attempting bikejoring. Exercise for dog and bikejorer? Bikejoring, unlike skijoring and
canicross, is primarily a vehicle for exercising and training your dog
rather than gaining a workout for yourself.
Because at least light tension must be applied to the towline at
all times, the bikejorer is required to feather the brakes rather than
pedal for most of the outing. The
towline tension is necessary to avoid tangles with the front wheel, which
can cause a crash. In certain conditions, however, it is
possible to enjoy a challenging workout while bikejoring.
For example, a hilly trail will require a bikejorer to pedal hard
up the climbs, especially if bikejoring with one dog on a steep grade.
Moreover, grassy, sandy or wood chip trails can require significant
pedaling input from the bikejorer even on flat sections.
This is due to the increased rolling resistance these surfaces
create versus trail surfaces like asphalt or concrete, which should be
avoided when possible (long runs on hard surfaces can cause pad, toe nail
and impact injury to your dog). Springer attachment As with skijoring, not every dog will stay in front like an Iditarod veteran. If your dog isn't a dependable front runner, you may opt for an attachment called a Springer. A Springer keeps the dog at the side of the bicycle via a short leash and spring mechanism that attaches to the bicycle seat tube (other variations attach to the bicycle's rear triangle). Because no line can tangle with the front wheel, the system can be safer for exercising dogs that aren't yet ready for prime time bikejoring. Bikejorers who primarily bikejor on city streets will also appreciate the short lead and greater control. One
disadvantage of the Springer, however, is the wider swath created when
bikejorer and dog travel side by side.
On most trails this isn't a factor, but for narrow single track the
traditional bikejoring set up is preferred which we'll describe later on
in this section. Another
disadvantage of the Springer involves positioning.
In skijoring, canicross and bikejoring, it is necessary for your
dog to be in front as a leader. Since
this behavior is critical for success in all three variations, it's best
to reinforce the front-running leadership role whenever your dog is
working, i.e., in the harness. As
previously mentioned, the Springer keeps your dog in a heeling,
non-leading position at your side. (Because
your dog can make contact with the front wheel while being run with a
Springer, keep the lead short and exercise extreme caution.) Scooters in vogue Recently scooters have become popular
for bikejoring. They are
simple in design, fun to ride and make sense for many different trail
situations, with the exception of steep climbs.
Mountain bikes work better for this scenario, due to the ability of
the bikejorer to smoothly add power up the hill with pedaling.
Bikejorers on scooters, conversely, must dismount and run or assist
their dog(s) by kicking. Both
of these alternatives are distracting to a dog, the latter creating slack
in the line at the very moment the dog is pulling with maximum effort. If you're planning to purchase a
scooter, we recommend selecting one that is designed for off-road use.
Off-road scooters tend to have knobby tires and higher ground
clearances which are important for bikejoring off the beaten path.
Additionally, many off-road versions are fitted with suspension
forks which add stability and comfort in bumpy terrain.
This is important since a bumpy ride on a scooter can literally
bounce the rider off the machine. To
avoid being jettisoned, use your legs as shock absorbers rather than
standing stiff-kneed on the scooter. Weight is also an important issue when
considering a scooter for bikejoring.
Extra heavy duty models handle sluggishly on technical trails and
are difficult to push or kick uphill.
Furthermore, they add to your momentum on down-hills making it more
challenging to slow your team, although the braking system and tires are
the most significant factors. Choose
a model that is roughly the weight of a good quality mountain bike, unless
you plan to do all your bikejoring on relatively flat trails or train
three or more dogs at once. Even if you're planning to scooter the
majority of the time on paved surfaces, an off-road scooter model is still
preferred versus a city or "road" version.
The off-road model transitions well to paved bike paths, sidewalks
and streets, etc., whereas the city scooter encounters difficulty making
the crossover to off-road. The
primary reason is traction. City
models generally have smoother tires, which provide inadequate traction on
grass, sand, dirt or gravel trails. Moreover,
smooth tires have even less traction when conditions are wet.
This is of paramount importance for bikejorers who encounter
morning dew on grassy, hilly trails. Ground clearance is also a factor, with
the off-road scooter having larger wheels (usually 20") and a
correspondingly higher foot platform.
This design element is important for bikejoring in the city as
well, given the potential for encountering speed bumps, curbs, etc.
The only disadvantages of the off-road scooter in city work are a
slightly higher center of gravity (negligible) and a small amount of
vibration and noise generated from the knobby tires.
This can be remedied by simply changing tires if you plan to
bikejor exclusively on paved surfaces. Stop scootering Finally, and most importantly, whatever
scooter design you choose, make sure you select a model with good quality
brakes on both wheels. "V
brakes," an innovation borrowed from the mountain bike industry, are
an excellent choice since they exert a tremendous amount of stopping power
to the rim with minimal hand pressure.
All V brakes are not created equal, however, so test ride your
scooter before buying...if the brakes can't stop you quickly on a test
ride, they'll never stop you when your dog is pulling! The V brake design will keep your hands
from cramping on extended runs and allow you to control your dogs
effectively on downhill sections. If
you bikejor often in wet conditions, consider purchasing a set of softer
red brake pad replacements for your V-brakes.
They stop more effectively versus their black counterparts when
wet, and still offer adequate wear over the course of a season.
In sum, the off-road version scooter is the best choice for all
around use, especially one equipped with good quality V-Brakes and
aggressive knobby tires. Canine control The key to successful training in any
dog powered sport is control, and this responsibility lies 100% with the
bikejorer. If control is
compromised, the probability of a mishap increases exponentially.
The main culprit is excess speed for any given situation, as
opposed to high-end speed measured in miles per hour.
To illustrate, a bikejorer may have complete control of his or her
team at 20 mph on a straight and flat trail, but on a downhill section
with an off-camber turn, 7 mph may be too fast.
Similar to our discussion with scooters,
a bicycle designed for off-road use, or mountain bike, is best suited for
all-around bikejoring. A good
quality mountain bike can bring a powerful dog team to a standstill
quickly and safely, allowing the bikejorer to stay within his or her
comfort range at all times. Obviously
experience is a critical component of the control equation, but beginners
and seasoned bikejorers alike should start with a dependable machine.
Important mountain bike equipment
Good traction is essential in
bikejoring, especially on hilly trails with loose or wet surfaces.
Choose good quality tires that have protruding knobs, and match the
tread type with the type of trails you'll encounter most frequently (your
local bike shop can help you with this).
For example, there are tires manufactured specifically for loose
gravel, mud, hard packed dirt, sand, etc.
Avoid "semi-slick" tires which
are designed for low rolling resistance rather than maximum traction, and
consider mounting your tires backwards (opposite the directional arrow) to
increase tread bite while braking. Finally,
inflate your tires to the lower end of the suggested range to expand the
amount of tire contacting the trail for improved grip.
The lower inflation will also provide a smoother ride and greater
control in challenging conditions.
A good set of tires are ineffectual if
paired with mediocre quality brakes. As
mentioned earlier in the scooter section, the mountain bike industry has
developed a braking system which generates impressive stopping force with
only light hand pressure. Coined "V-brakes," the design
allows a bikejorer to control a fresh team of dogs on a challenging trail
without concern for hand cramps. Of
course "caveat emptor" applies to brakes like any other piece of
equipment, so be sure to test ride before buying if possible.
And if you bikejor often in wet conditions, i.e., morning runs with
dew or melting frost on the trail, exchange the standard issue brake pads
for red, wet weather versions (Ritchey brand works well).
As a side benefit, the red pads often eliminate brake pad chatter
and screeching. One cautionary note for hard-core
bikejorers running two or three powerful dogs on a frequent basis -
inspect your rims occasionally for excess wear which can manifest as
hairline cracks in the rim sidewall. If
you bikejor a lot in wet, sandy conditions, a set of rims will last
approximately two seasons before needing replacement.
The brake friction and grit simply wears through the rim surface.
Ceramic treated rims are more durable and stop better in wet
conditions, but wear through brake pads faster than smooth annodized rims.
Recently mountain bike manufacturers
have been adding disc brakes to many of their new models.
Disc brakes have been used on downhill racers' bikes for years, but
now are becoming mainstream on cross country style mountain bikes.
Downhill racers have preferred disc brakes for their dependable
braking at high speeds and performance in extreme conditions.
Good quality disc brakes are superior to
V-brakes in stopping power and modulation, but tend to be more expensive
and technologically complex. For
example, numerous designs employ hydraulic systems similar to those found
in an automobile, although new, simpler mechanical versions function well
and are gaining popularity. Disc
brakes are usually purchased as original equipment on a new bike due to
the cost of retrofitting a bike with standard brakes. Disc brakes use a pad and rotor
combination at the center of the wheel rather than a standard bicycle
brake at the rim. This
eliminates friction and wear at the rim side wall, an important
improvement for bikejorers. Another
benefit is wet weather performance, where disc brakes significantly
outperform all other bicycle braking systems.
In sum, a mountain bike with good quality disc brakes and knobby
tires will allow you to stop your team on a dime under most trail
conditions.
Mountain bikes are usually equipped with
suspension in the form of a front shock.
Front end suspension minimizes the impact of rough terrain and
improves handling and control for off-road riding.
Specifically for bikejoring, a suspension fork allows the bikejorer
to brake constantly without his or her hands bouncing off the handlebars
(during braking only your thumb and palm contact the handlebar).
Control is also improved with a suspension fork due to the tire
maintaining contact with the ground instead of bouncing over bumpy
terrain. This continual
contact with the trail surface also improves traction.
Most mountain bike manufacturers offer
several dual suspension models which include a suspension fork in front
and a rear shock as well. Dual
suspension bikes are phenomenal for bikejoring but are more expensive than
models with just one shock. The
advantages of control, traction and comfort, however, are worth the
expense if you plan to bikejor frequently on off-road trails.
If you're in the market for a "dualie," choose one with
disc brakes for the ultimate bikejoring machine.
Already own a "hardtail"?
Consider purchasing an add-on suspension seatpost to smoothen out
the bumps and improve traction.
Beginners and those who bikejor often on
challenging trails with two or three dogs will appreciate this piece of
equipment. Similar to the
quick release skewers found on bicycle hubs, the quick release seat binder
allows for quick seat height adjustment at the trailhead without using
tools. But why is this
convenience important for bikejorers? Experienced bikejorers often lower their
bicycle seats for improved stability and handling.
Lowering the seat lowers a bikejorer's center of gravity, and
allows the bikejorer to stand flat-footed during starts and stops.
The lower position also makes it possible to steady the bike
through corners by dragging a foot, and reduces the possibility of an
"endo" when bikejoring down steep descents.
For beginners a lowered seat simply makes bikejoring easier.
Obviously pedaling efficiency is compromised, but the tradeoff is
worthwhile until the bikejorer gains experience and confidence.
After finishing a bikejoring run the seat can be quickly returned
to its normal height for regular riding.
No explanation needed here.
If you plan to bikejor in wet conditions, especially wet cold
conditions, fenders are an indispensable accessory.
Bikejoring equipment (besides the
bike) So far we've discussed which bicycles
and scooters work well for bikejoring.
But what other equipment is necessary to have fun with your dog on
two wheels, for example, is a skijoring belt needed?
The answer is no concerning the skijor belt, but you will need a
bungee towline, dog harness, eye protection and most importantly, a helmet
to enjoy the sport safely.
No piece of bikejoring equipment works
harder than the bungee towline. During
starts, the bungee elongates to compensate for the dog's enthusiasm and
bikejorer's transition to speed; during running, the bungee stretches and
retracts with each coiling action the dog makes; during climbing and
descending, the bungee works constantly to help equalize the speed between
bikejorer and dog; during braking, the bungee elongates to cushion the
stopping force against the dog. These are only a few examples of why a
bungee towline is necessary for bikejoring.
Simply stated, bungee lines smoothen out the bikejoring experience
for your dog, allowing him or her to concentrate on pulling rather than
anticipating when the next line jerk will occur.
Bungees can also take up a significant amount of line slack,
similar to the way a retractable leash winds up excess cord.
This recoiling action reduces the probability of a line tangle with
the front wheel or your dog's hind legs. Bikejoring and skijoring towlines
typically have a section of internal bungee, usually 3/8" thick and
12" to 18" long. The
bungee can be sewn, tied or clamped inside a length of hollow braided
polyethylene rope, approximately ten feet long when stretched.
We prefer sewn bungees for their durability and clean, simple
design. Two-stage towlines are
a new alternative, and usually include a section of 1/4" bungee as
well as a section of 3/8". These
new style towlines address the problem of varying degrees of force against
the line, and retract significantly more slack line versus standard models
(about 30" versus 15").
Two-stage lines offer a variable rate of
suspension due to the different elongation properties of the small and
large diameter bungees. The
thicker bungee elongates when heavy pressures are applied to the line, for
example when starting or braking; the thinner bungee elongates when light
pressures are applied, for example, during the end of a run when a dog is
trotting. Of course the
thinner bungee elongates during the heavy pressures as well, which softens
the transition from light to heavy tension.
The result is a more constant and
predictable work load for your dog, with fewer slack lines.
The importance of a good quality dog
harness cannot be over emphasized (never use your dog's collar for
pulling). As a general rule,
good quality harnesses cannot be purchased at commercial pet stores, which
tend to carry "walking" or recreational style harnesses.
Instead, choose a harness designed for pulling from a skijoring or
mushing supplier. We recommend
"X-Backs," which cradle a dog's back and sides without
inhibiting running movement or chest expansion.
A good quality harness should also have dense padding around the
neck opening and chest plate. For
a more detailed discussion on harnesses and proper fit - which is
critically important - see our equipment section.
Dogs kick up an inordinate amount of
gravel, sand, wood chips, clumps of mud, grass, etc. while bikejoring,
especially when the trail is wet. Your
knobby tires will also contribute to the onslaught of flying debris.
Protect your eyes by wearing a quality pair of impact resistant
glasses, and if bikejoring in the woods, use clear or light colored lenses
rather than dark glasses to improve your vision in the shade.
Murphy's Law was created for bikejoring.
Dogs bolt off trail after rabbits the exact moment a bikejorer is
off balance; towlines quickly tangle the instant a bikejorer waves to a
friendly passerby; humans have been known to say gee when they mean haw.
For Pete's sake, wear your helmet.
Getting started As mentioned during the introduction to
the bikejoring section, beginners are encouraged to have some experience
running dogs before giving bikejoring a try.
It's also beneficial for the bikejoring dog to have experience
pulling in the harness, whether in front of a runner, skijorer or dog
sled. An inexperienced dog
will often attempt to stay close to the owner and bike, making starting
difficult. If you're new to
dog pulling sports, we suggest reviewing our section on "Teaching
Your Dog To Pull" before reading further.
The "Commands" section is also recommended. A successful bikejoring outing requires
some planning if you're a first timer.
Practice putting the harness on your dog a time or two at home, and
connect the towline to your bike before your maiden voyage.
The object here is to confirm that the line doesn't interfere with
the safe operation of your front brake. Connecting the towline to your bike As mentioned previously, you should
leave your skijoring belt at home when bikejoring.
Wearing the belt while riding creates a myriad of problems, for
example, the attached towline can tangle with the handlebars, brake
levers, shifters, etc. Additionally,
if your dog bolts off trail the towline can travel across your handlebars
and pull against your arm, compromising your balance and ability to steer.
Being personally tethered to your dog near traffic is also a
concern. Instead, connect the
towline to the head tube of your bike or base of the handlebar stem as
described below. The head tube is the forward most frame
member located between the fork and handlebar stem.
It is an excellent connecting point for the towline, given the fact
it is stationary and independent from the bicycle's steering mechanism.
Furthermore, the head tube offers a relatively low fulcrum point
versus other options, which reduces the amount of leverage your dog can
exert from the side. This is a
subtle, but important advantage when your dog sojourns off trail....a
lower connecting point can make a significant difference in stability,
even if only a few inches. Most bike manufacturers route the front
brake cable to the side of the head tube.
This makes it possible to wrap the towline around the head tube
without affecting the cable or operation of the front brake.
With some bikes, however, this is not possible.
For example, older model bikes with "M style" center pull
brakes have front brake cables that attach directly in front of the head
tube. Bikejorers with this
arrangement must wrap the towline around the handlebar stem instead.
If your front brake cable set up allows
you to connect directly to the head tube, wrap the towline around the head
tube and thread the snap through the loop to create a slip knot.
Make sure the knot can rotate freely from side to side to
compensate for your dog's turning radius, and test your front brake to
confirm that the towline doesn't restrict its operation - very important!
At this time you should also verify that the towline doesn't
interfere with the other cables at the front of the bike when rotated from
side to side. Simply stated,
the towline should be routed through the cables so that it doesn't
interfere with steering. Bikejorers with large sized bikes will
find it advantageous to slide the towline to the top of the head tube and
secure with a small guage rope (14" long works well).
This technique prevents the towline from sliding downward towards
the front brake and wheel. Before
hooking up your dog, be sure the small rope allows the towline slip knot
to rotate from side to side without binding. Many new mountain bikes are manufactured
with large diameter aluminum tubes. On
smaller frame sizes there can be a limited amount of space behind the head
tube for the towline to fit and rotate.
If the juncture behind your bike head tube offers limited space, or
forms a shape which is not conducive to free towline rotation, consider
looping the towline around the base of your handlebar stem instead.
For bikes with new style stems this means looping around the
spacers situated below the stem; for older style bikes this involves
wrapping around the base of the stem itself.
Secure the towline in place if necessary with the small guage rope
previously described, and confirm that your bike's spacers, headset cups,
stem base, etc., will not cut into the towline (these parts can have sharp
edges). Some bikejorers will find it's not
possible to connect the towline to the head tube or base of the stem due
to front brake, stem or frame design.
In these cases the towline must be connected to the end of the stem
where the stem attaches to the handlebars.
This connection point is least desirable because it affords your
dog significant control over your steering.
For example, if your dog bolts off trail the stem and wheel will
immediately turn in the same direction while your center of gravity will
move the opposite way. This is
unnerving at first, but can be contolled by quickly turning and leaning
towards the direction your dog is pulling.
We highly recommend experiencing this getting a feel for this
before hooking up your dog. Besides becoming familiar with your
bikejoring equipment, in particular connecting the towline, it's also a
good idea to have a friend or family member pull you around the yard so
you can first practice bikejoring without the dog.
Your "substitute canine" can wear a skijor belt backwards
so it's comfortable for him or her to pull.
Remember that the towline is like a big rubber band, so if the snap
is released under tension it will fling towards you at a high rate of
speed. Following are some
exercises you can try with your helper, and yes your neighbors will think
you're odd. Bikejoring primer
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